Venice Day 3, churches and churches

Venice has a lot of churches, arguably too many. Santa Maria Gloriosa del Frari is one of the major ones and so we wended our way down from the Mercato di Rialto to the San Polo district to see it. There were other churches on the way. Being just after Christmas they still had their cribs in place, and there may have been a crib competition going on as each one was bigger and better than the last, sometimes occupying a whole room with waterwheels spinning, donkeys braying and a whole tableau vivant going on. We went by tiny streets, over small bridges with glimpses over even smaller bridges down narrow canals.

Campo San Giacomo dell 'Orio

San Giacomo dell 'Orio

San Giacomo dell 'Orio

We made a diversion to see the Natural History Museum as it is housed in a 13th century palazzo, the Fontego del Turchi. Unfortunately we could not get to the canal side of the museum which would had been more interesting, although the displays were good and we could look into a nice courtyard.

And then it was back through small alleys and squares until we got to the great brick bulk of the Frari. Built for Franciscan friars in the 15th century it contains a vast open space with high tie beams keeping the walls together in this sinking city. There are a couple of notable tombs. One very elaborate one for Doge Giovanni Pesaro, and the other, rather lovelier one for the sculptor Canova.

Titian's Assumption dominates the main altar

Jacobo Pesaro Altarpiece


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