We travelled overnight from La Paz to Uyuni to start our 3 day tour of the salt flats and lakes. The bus was doing alright until about midnight when the metalled road gave out, to be replaced by rutted dirt. I was not feeling 100% and thought a trip to the toilet, situated at the back of the bus, would be useful. In the dark I did not realise that the aisle was full of luggage and one sleeping person. A tiny elderly Bolivian lady in full skirts and bowler hat still firmly fixed to the top of her head. Having negotiated myself there I found that the flush was not working - most off putting, and then had to get back to my seat, much to everyone else's disgust. We arrived in Uyuni around 7.00am having now got 2 hours to wait until the tour company opened. Uyuni was deserted except for the decamped bus load so we walked up towards the centre where we were taken hostage by a friendly cafe owner who escorted us to her premises. It was warm inside and crowded as nearly everyone from the...
