California, 9th November, Hearst Castle

We woke up early in the morning anticipating a fantastic day on the coast, but looked outside to see thick fog, a real pea souper. This is the downside of the California coast, you imagine hot dreamy days with beach balls and fun. Instead there is no visibility and a wet smog. We decided to go to Hearst Castle  to while away the time.
The castle lies up the coast at San Simeon and a little inland. The first tour started at 9.00am but we were there by 8.00 so we booked ourselves on it and then had some breakfast in the car park. The trees were shrouded in mist.

At the side of the car park were large numbers of very superior portaloos. All of the toilets in the visitor centre had been shut due to water shortages.

When the tour started we were loaded into little buses to take us up the hill to the castle, or La Cuesta Encantada, the Enchanted Hill, as William Randolph Hearst preferred to call it. As we climbed we came out of the fog and saw a number of Barbary sheep on the side of the road. Hearst used to have a zoo where he kept all sorts of exotic animals, including lions. When it was shut the grazing animals were put out on the ranch with the cattle. The land is still farmed by his descendants. We saw a distant zebra as well.

The bus stopped in front of the castle and we were hustled inside for a tour. We passed the bungalows which Hearst and his family lived in while the main house was being built and were subsequently used as guest accommodation. They would have done quite nicely for us!

Hearst (1863-1951) the newspaper publisher, lived on the property in the 20's through to the 40's with his mistress Marion Davies, a film star. He was not, as depicted in the film Citizen Kane a recluse, but loved entertaining and the major stars of the Hollwood screen vied to get invitations. A favourite was Charlie Chaplin, but even William Churchill stayed here in the 1930's. The house was designed by architect Julia Morgan in the style of a Spanish cathedral and Hearst spent time in Europe buying antiques, parts of monasteries, Greek statues and anything to embellish his home.

We were shown the reception rooms where the walls were panelled in wood carved and enclosing medieval icons, all taken from a monastery The dining room and the games room were heavily hung with tapestries.

After the tour we were allowed to wander in the grounds to admire the pools and fountains, statues, terraces and roses. All too much really.

Clever old Randolph had situated his castle above the fog line so that he could bathe in eternal California sunshine!!

We went to see the tennis courts and the external swimming pool, which was empty of water for some renovation.

And then the wondrous indoor pool, with tiles of the deepest azure inlaid with gold leaf!!

When we were sated we caught the bus back down the hill to look back at La Cuesta Encantada glowing through the mist like Disneyland.

Back in the visitor centre we treated ourselves to a Starbuck's and watched a short film about Hearst's life at the castle, including a lot of old film footage. Then, the fog having cleared somewhat, we drove back to the coast at San Simeon to walk on the pier and have some lunch. There was a rather fine crow who posed for us.