Hey hey USA - 22nd October - and we're on our own

February 12, 2023

For the next part of our trip I had rented a campervan from an organisation a bit like Airbnb. Anne and Mike were flying home late morning from Albuquerque and so they dropped us off at the address where the camper was kept. I had been looking at the weather forecast which told me the weather was going to get colder, unseasonably colder and dropping to much below freezing, especially as we got higher in elevation.

So we were there, on the pavement with two suitcases and several bags of the food that had been left over from the earlier part of the trip. The owner of the van came out and introduced us to the camper pictured underneath.

This picture is taken from the website of the company. There were problems however, as it was explained to us that the awning could not be used as a previous renter had broken it. The air conditioner could not be used, again as a previous renter had broken it. I asked about the heater and the owner was evasive and said he had never used it. I asked for extra blankets, but we were both feeling a little apprehensive. But what to do? We were there with all our stuff so decided to take the chance and get away.

We went via a supermarket to stock up. As there were only paper plates and plastic cutlery we also bought some metal knives and forks and a couple of mugs. Also a camping kettle and some bed sheets as they were not provided either.

We drove west and then north from Albuquerque and into the land of the Jemez Pueblo. There are a number of pueblos in New Mexico. These are lands belonging to native Americans and are sovereign nations with a tribal government and a tribal court system. Many of them are closed to outsiders. The Jemez nation has been in existence since at least the late 13th century, and when the Spanish came in 1541 was one of the largest of the puebloan cultures in New Mexico. Based around the present pueblo village of Walatowa the people lived in huge multi-storey rock dwellings high in the mountains.

When the Spanish arrived there was at first little contact between the two groups of people but in 1598 a church was built and the Spanish set about christianising the Jemez people. At that time the Jemez population was ten times what it is today.

There followed decades of bloodshed and by 1696 the Jemez people were under Spanish subjuctation. They were all moved to the area immediately around Wawatowa, where there is a now a large village with medical services and all you would expect from modern day living. The villagers have kept their traditional crafts going, such as pottery weaving and basket work. They also celebrate traditional dances some of which are open to the general public.

We drove up and parked at the Wawatowa Welcome Centre which was not open unfortunately as it holds a museum. This is red rock country big time and so we walked a little way on a trail leading between the outcrops. On the side of the road were several food shacks which were doing great business.